Discover the Hidden Magic of Amsterdam: Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder
Nestled along Amsterdam’s canals, Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder is one of those places that quietly takes your breath away. From the outside, it looks like a typical 17th-century canal house. But step inside, climb the creaky wooden stairs, and you’ll find yourself in a secret attic church—a hidden world that tells the story of faith, creativity, and resilience.
Whether you’re a history lover, an explorer of hidden gems, or simply someone who enjoys uncovering the unexpected, this museum is a must-visit when you’re in Amsterdam.
Practical Details for Your Visit
Before we explore the fascinating story behind this attic church, here’s the info you’ll need to plan your trip:
Address: Oudezijds Voorburgwal 38-40, 1012 GD Amsterdam
Opening Hours:
- Monday to Saturday: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM
- Sunday: 1:00 PM – 6:00 PM
Ticket Prices (2024):
- Adults: €15
- Children (5-18): €7.50
- Under 5: Free
How to Get There: It’s just a short walk from Amsterdam Centraal Station. Wander along the canals and enjoy the scenery—this is Amsterdam at its best.
Tip: Tickets include an audio guide, which is great for diving deeper into the history as you explore.
Travelglaze Story:
It’s 1661, and Amsterdam is bustling. Ships crowd the canals, merchants shout their deals, and the city feels alive with trade and energy. But for Catholics, life is complicated. Public worship is no longer allowed, forcing them to find quiet, hidden ways to practice their faith.
Hidden treasures
Imagine a cold, rainy night in Amsterdam’s Jordaan neighborhood. A man—let’s call him Pieter van der Berg—walks quickly through the narrow streets, his jacket pulled tight against the wind. He stays close to the walls of the houses, glancing over his shoulder every so often to make sure he isn’t being followed. The streets are dark and empty, the sound of his footsteps echoing on the wet cobblestones.
At last, Pieter slips into a narrow alley and enters a small, unmarked door. Inside, it’s dark and quiet. He carefully makes his way through a maze of tight hallways and up a steep, creaky staircase. Suddenly, he stops—a tall figure is waiting for him in the shadows.
“Pieter, you’ve made it,” says the man softly. It’s Jan Hartman, a German-born sock merchant who owns this house and a few others connected to it. But tonight, he’s not here to talk about socks. Jan has created something extraordinary—a secret church in the attic of his home.
“We’re ready to start,” Jan says quietly.
“How many people are here tonight?” Pieter asks.
“Almost 150,” Jan replies.
Pieter nods and takes off his coat, revealing the robes of a Catholic priest. He climbs the final set of stairs, Jan following close behind. Above them, the soft murmur of people waiting in candlelight grows louder. In this secret space, the faith that has been pushed underground comes alive once again.
The Story of Jan’s Hidden Church
Jan Hartman wasn’t just a sock merchant—he was a man of vision and determination. When he purchased the canal house on the Oudezijds Voorburgwal, he saw an opportunity to help his fellow Catholics. Public churches were no longer allowed, but Amsterdam’s unique sense of tolerance meant that secret worship spaces—“schuilkerken” or hidden churches—were quietly overlooked as long as they didn’t draw attention.
Jan transformed the attic of his home into a breathtaking sanctuary. This wasn’t just a makeshift chapel; it was a fully functioning church. He spared no expense, installing a golden Baroque altar, intricate woodwork, and seating for up to 150 people. The craftsmanship was extraordinary, with every detail designed to make the space feel sacred and welcoming.
For over two centuries, this hidden attic church served as a place of worship for Amsterdam’s Catholic community. People like Pieter risked everything to gather here, climbing narrow stairs in secret to hear mass and connect with their faith.
A Rediscovery in Modern Times
Fast forward to the 19th century, when attic churches were no longer needed. Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder was transformed into a museum in 1888, becoming Amsterdam’s second-oldest museum (after the Rijksmuseum). But it didn’t stop there.
In 2015, the museum underwent a major renovation, which included connecting it to the neighboring building through an underground passage. During this time, archaeologists made some fascinating discoveries—like 17th-century glassware and pottery that had been hidden for centuries. The renovation also added a modern welcome area, including a café and gift shop, where visitors can reflect on their experience over a cup of coffee.
Travelglaze Fun Facts:
- The Windkast Mystery:
Instead of the usual hoisting beam on the façade of the house, a hidden windkast (a pulley system) was installed on the side alley. This pulley was typically used in warehouses to lift goods but was adapted here—perhaps to secretly bring supplies or even church equipment to the attic - No Pews, Just Benches:
The church’s seating consists of simple wooden benches rather than ornate pews. This was intentional—it allowed the space to be rearranged quickly, keeping it multifunctional and practical for its time. - A Living Church: The attic church is still used for special occasions today, like Christmas Eve midnight mass and monthly services during the winter months. Imagine attending a ceremony in such an intimate, historic space!
- Hidden Name: “Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder” (Our Lord in the Attic) only became its name in the 19th century. Before that, it was known by simpler names like “Het Haantje” and “Het Hert.”
- A Multitasking Building:
Jan Hartman’s house didn’t just hide a church. The lower floors were his living quarters, and his sock business likely operated out of another part of the house. It’s a great example of how 17th-century houses served multiple purposes in cramped Amsterdam. - The Unique Color Palette:
The pink and gold tones of the attic church’s interior weren’t just for decoration. Pink symbolized love and compassion, while gold evoked the divine. The colors give the space an otherworldly, soft glow that makes it feel both intimate and sacred.
Why You Should Visit
Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder isn’t just a museum—it’s an experience. It’s a peek into a hidden side of Amsterdam, where faith and creativity intertwined in the most extraordinary way. You’ll walk through narrow staircases, marvel at the craftsmanship of a bygone era, and leave with a deeper appreciation for the resilience and ingenuity of Amsterdam’s people.
Plus, when your friends ask what you did in Amsterdam, you get to casually say, “Oh, I visited a secret church hidden in an attic from the 1600s. No big deal.”
So, pack your curiosity and a good pair of walking shoes, and head to Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a culture lover, or just someone who loves uncovering the unexpected, this museum promises a Travelglaze Moment you won’t forget.
Want to learn more about Amsterdam’s past? Check out the ghost stories blog!
